Privacy Policy
How do antweight big-wheeled vertical spinners like "Oathbringer" constrain the weapon shaft between their chassis halves? I would guess that the weapon shaft is hollow with wires threaded through (like on "SLAM PLAN") due to the chassis being too skinny to contain independent electrical systems, but I am uncertain as to how everything else is held together. [Zanesville, Ohio]
A: Mark J. Given that the weapon dead shaft on a HUGE-style big-wheel vertical spinner takes a great deal of stress and holds the entire 'bot together, the mounting of the shaft to the chassis halves is critical -- regardless of weight class. The preferred method is to clamp a good length of shaft in machined alloy blocks pulled tight by heavy machine screws. The blocks are in turn secured to the chassis at multiple points with screws. An example of such mounting in hobbyweight 'SLAM PLAN' and a typical clamp mount can be seen below:
Orders of Magnitude
Q: As seen from a question you recently answered, India continues to receive negativity from the combat robot community for their still-abysmal safety practices. With the World Cup underway, I couldn't resist asking this. Do you think establishing an international governing body for robot combat with universal rules and standards (similar to FIFA in soccer) could help improve safety in the region? What do you think?
A: Mark J. FIFA is a major sports organizaition with ample financial influence to reward compliance with their rules and regulations. Their current tournament has a prize pool of a billion dollars. Huge numbers of fans spend time and considerable money to travel across the globe to their events, and countries vie to attract their favor.
Combat robotics is many orders of magnitude too small to support an international governing body. What "carrot" could it offer for compliance? What "stick" could there be to chastise violations? Why would a technology fair in India pay any attention to rules they could not afford to follow?
Beware of the Blob
Q: I am making a chassis for a beetleweight robot out of hdpe [High Density Polyethylene] and I want it to be a unibody so assembly would be a bit easier. But I don't have a milling machine, so I thought that molding would be a better solution. I was wondering if making it this way would be less durable. Thank you.
A: Mark J. When you warm up HDPE to molding temperature it does not become a pourable liquid like parafin wax -- it becomes a viscous semi-solid glob that must be pressed into the mold while still very hot. Getting this gummy mass to fill the corners and edges of a mold as small and complex as a beetleweight robot chassis would very likely leave you with voids and poorly adhered folds that would compromise both the strength and functionality of the finished product.
Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything
Plastic insect-class robot chassis are exactly what 3D printing technology is good at doing, which is why you see so many printed chassis and few if any molded beetle chassis. Cannot recommend.
Flashback ➤ Archived post from 2020
There are features available on your transmitter that will make your robot respond better to the commands you give and make you more comfortable at the controls. Chances are that you're overlooking at least a couple tweeks that could make you a better driver. Let's see how much you know about transmitter functions.
Too Fast for Cycloidal
Q: I'm looking at using a 3800kv brushless motor (the ones used in Just Cuz Robotics' Blitz Lite gearmotors) at 4S to power a beetleweight lifter/low-powered flipper. I've figured out a good balance of speed and torque at ~287rpm, but getting down to that speed requires around a 196:1 reduction from the bare motor. Would a 2-stage cycloidal drive be feasible, or am I better off just running the full gearmotor with some external reduction? The torque efficiency and compactness sound great in theory, but I don't know how durable it would be in combat, and the fact that there are no robots I know of that use it is worrying.
A: Mark J. You are well advised to be worried. NASA-quality machined cycloidal drives have very high efficiency, but miniature 3D printed versions do not. You would be lucky to get 70% efficiency per stage, which means that in a two-stage drive about half the input power would turn into heat.
Cycloidal drives are also not well suited to high input speeds, and you're looking to feed one better than 50K RPM. I foresee a very short lifespan for your proposed drive. If you want to use a high Kv motor, stick with conventional gears.
Not For the Motor
Q: I've killed a couple of weapon motors (belt-drive 4S 2836 1500Kv) on my beetle. Both completely failed with a puff of smoke on after big hits. The stator windings were discolored and burned thru in a couple of places. Should I be using a capacitor across the ESC power leads to keep this from happening?
Shock loading and heat are the things that kill stators. If you're spinning a big beater bar the aerodynamic loading may be too great for a 2836 -- consider a larger motor. Also think about epoxy coating the stator windings (photo) to improve cooling and prevent wire shifting.
The Channels are Not Swapped
Q: My bot is turning side to side when I hold forward and backwards and it goes back and forth when I try to turn, so basically channel 1 and 2 are swapped. I cannot do anything with the receiver because it is an all-in-one Catalyst brushless receiver/ESC.
A: Mark J. This can be fixed in the transmitter or by a hardware adjustment. Since you have not mentioned what transmitter you're using I'll give you the hardware fix:
Reply: It's not that the motors are running in reverse, it's that CH1 and CH2 are swapped and I can only change it via the transmitter.
Response: That's incorrect. If your 'bot spins in place when you try to go forward or reverse one of the motors is responding in reverse -- and that problem CAN be resolved by swapping motor leads as described above.
If you prefer a transmitter settings solution, you can use the "reverse" function to invert the output from the Catalyst port controlling the motor that is responding incorrectly. I believe the Catalyst assigns the left and right side motors to Ch1 and Ch2 respectively.
You are still not telling me what transmitter you have. Why is it a secret? If you are using the popular FS-i6 transmitter my FlySky FS-i6 Combat Guide gives full instructions on use of the reverse function.
Flashback ➤ Archived post from 2017
Don't Actually Lick It!
Q: I'd like to find the actual speed of my spinner weapon but I have no measuring tools and no budget. Are there any oddball tricks? [Facebook]
A: Mark J. A few, but I can't vouch for any of them...
If you really want to know how fast your weapon spins you can buy a digital laser tachometer online for less than $20.
Do I Have to Read it All?
Q: Am I really supposed to read through the 7928 questions and answers on Ask Aaron to learn how to build a combat robot? The RioBots Combat Guide is seventeen years old, 367 pages long, and badly needs another update. Isn't there a concise instructional guide that's been written in this decade that can tell me how to build a beetleweight robot?
A: Mark J. Ask Aaron was never intended as a course in combat robotics. It's a source to turn to if you're stumped on some specific problem, seek clarification on design theory, or just browse for your own entertainment. The RioBots guide is a great engineering resource even given its age, but it also is not a beginner's course. If you want a recent guide that covers building a beetle from the ground up I've got just what you're looking for.
Leo Ping, captain of the University of Toronto Robotics Association Combat Robotics team, has published a free download "Beetleweights for Dummies -- The Ultimate Guide to Building your Own 3lb Death Machine" -- 135 pages, written in the Fall of 2025. It's been widely distributed on the NHRL discord. Like the RioBots guide, I don't agree with everything presented therein (e.g. the section on weapon 'bite' is misleading) but in general the material is quite good and covers all the bases.
That's Not Bind Mode
Q: I'm building an antweight and having trouble with the Malenki Nano receiver/ESC. It has been working well but has now started going into binding mode whenever I turn it on, even though I don't wait the 90 seconds before powering up my transmitter. If I restart my transmitter in bind mode the FS-i6 displays "RXBinding" but the blue light on the Malenki keeps flickering. Any idea what's wrong?
A: Mark J. Malenkis have some quirks that can trip up the unwary. One simple rule will avoid most of the trouble:
Malenki designer Mark Robson writes in with a note on config mode:
"Super well done, that's exactly right. It does have a config mode as well as a bind mode. Config mode is super easy to exit, just drive the robot (forward or reverse) and it immediately goes into drive mode." It Looks Safer Now...
Q: India’s reputation for un-safe robot competitions has left a very uncomfortable reputation in the community but I and many others feel it is no longer acceptable to label such a large country, especially given the hard work that has been done to improve safety.
There has been both a push for safer events and more robotiers have gone away from street wars, flimsy cages, and unregulated combat. IIT Bombay Robowars has created a much better space with a fully enclosed arena and better safety regulations so much so that robots from other countries have started competing at their events.
The fact most Indian teams refuse to compete at unsafe events is also a preeminent sign of how supportive of safety they are now. Do you think you could back away from your negative comments on Indian robot combat safety?
A: Mark J. Tournaments in India are looking better, but appearances can be deceiving. Here is a video clip from the I.Fest tournament in Gajarat, India on the 15th of November, 2025.
Arenas that LOOK safe are not always arenas that ARE safe. That 10mm thick "polycarbonate" (was it?) panel shattered, a robot with an active spinner weapon plunged into the audience, and multiple people were injured. My policy on robots competing in India remains in place.
Favorite Names
Q: Do you have any favorite robot names? 2 of my favorites are DDT (Jamison's deadly antweight named after the infamous insecticide - very fitting) and Rickety Cricket (the beetleweight gyro-walker named after an IASIP character).
Also, thank you wholeheartedly for maintaining this website. It's a wonderful community resource and obvious labor of love. It reminds me of the more personal, and expressive "old internet" that I don't see enough anymore.
A: Mark J.
I don't keep an updated list, but Aaron gave these five bot names as his favorites in an archived post from 2009:
I've Got a Calculator for That
Q: Hey there,Im redesign a robot I posted on here in 2024, mainly the weapon system. Im wondering how bad the gyroscopic effects would be between these two designs
Both have the same diameter of 127mm, with the disk being around 78.5 grams and the bar being around 36.7 grams
A: Mark J. The amount of gyro reaction your robot will get when turning is dependent on drive train width, robot speed, robot mass, weapon speed, and the weapon mass moment of inertia (MoI). If your CAD program can provide the weapon MoI, I just happen to have a calulator that will give you a full answer to your question:
Both Ways at Once?
Q: I was playing around with the idea of splitting a single large vertical spinner into two smaller ones, and running them opposite to each other - with the point being to possibly shear materials by applying conflicting forces. Is this sound, or would it likely just blow two motors?
Quite Expensive
Q: Help me make a 30 pound arena i want to know what you look upto with design help and suggestions which i must follow while building one. Size would be 16x16 ft
A: Mark J. From the wording of your request I assume that you wrote this for some AI service but did not like the answer you received. I dropped it into ChatGPT and got a jumbled mix of useful information and contradictory mush. A quick search of the Ask Aaron Archives for build a safe robot combat arena would have saved both of us time and frustration.
See the Ask Aaron Frequently Asked Questions #38 for resources, plans, and guidance on building safe robot combat arenas for various weight classes. A proper arena of the size and capacity you specified will be quite expensive.
As best I can tell, no one from India has ever read the FAQ or searched the Archives prior to asking a question. This is a major frustration for me.
Horses for Courses
Q: I'm thinking about buying a BotKits D2 beetleweight kit but I don't know whether to get the wedge or the forks for my weapon. Which works better?
A: Mark J. The wedge and forks are both good, but in different situations:
Flashback ➤ Archived post from 2020
Q: A builder on [social media] recently mentioned using a 2205 2300kv brushless weapon motor in their combat antweight. Was that a typo? Does anyone make an outrunner only 5mm thick? [Akron, Ohio]
A: Mark J. I understand your confusion. There are two ways to measure a motor for classification:
Tournament Trees
Q: Can I ask which software you used to create the brackets on the "Who Won" pages?
A: Mark J. It's largely a manual process:
Alternating Violence
Q: For my combat robot (with the FS-i6x transmitter and receiver), the robot can move smoothly forward (with a little bit of veering) and turn to the right and left. However, when going backwards it keep alternating between violently turning left or right in a circle. Is this a mechanical imbalance or software issue? And how can I program the transmitter to fix it so it travels backwards more smoothly?
A: Mark J. You've told me nothing about your robot, but let me guess: two wheels set WAY at the back of the chassis and something heavy up in the front. That layout gives very little weight on the drive wheels, and little weight means little traction. When backing, any irregularity in the arena surface will shift what little traction you have to one or the other wheel and cause an unexpected turning motion. Lateral weight transfer caused by the turn locks you in and spins you around. Your problem is entirely mechanical - no transmitter adjustment will help. A two-wheel drive 'bot should have about 2/3rds of the total weight on the wheels for best pushing power, agile response, and good tracking.
Short of redesigning your bot, you can examine the parts in the front of the 'bot that slide along the floor. Polish those contact points smooth and tweak the chassis as needed to assure left and right sides touch with equal weight. If you have the option to move the drive motors forward or shift heavy components rearward you may get some improvement -- but this design error is something best handled when first laying out your component placement.
Take a look at this post from the design archive in early 2025:
A: Mark J. For best traction you want as much weight on the drive wheels as possible, but leaving too little weight on the front of your 'bot will allow it lift up off the arena floor under acceleration and make it vulnerable to attack. Designing for 65% of the robot weight on the drive wheels gives good traction and leaves enough front weight in most cases.
Note 2 - Magnet downforce may be used to correct traction and lift problems in a steel-floored arena. Combined gravity and magnetic weight of 65% on the drive wheels will still be a good starting point.
Overkill But Undervolted
Q: Hey there,Im trying to choose the right brushless motors for the drivetrain of my 30kg combat robot (Its a drum spinner). Im wondering if the "6354 190kv Belt Motor BLDC Motor for On-road and Off-road Electric Skateboard and Robot" would be a good fit for my two wheel drive? our wheels diameter is 25cm (9.843 inches i believe) and the voltage input is 22.2v (Will be using a 6s Lipo batter)
if i need to provide more information then please tell me! Hope this isnt a case of a bad hamburger
A: Mark J. From the Ask Aaron Brushless Motor Selection Guide:
Something more like the HobbyStar 4120 (5055) 710 Kv Brushless Outrunner would be close to the low end of the suggested mass range and would produce full power on 6s voltage. Gearing depends on arena size, but a 45:1 reduction (with those 25cm wheels -- why so big?) would give good performance in an 8 meter wide arena.
Q: Hey, person with the 30kg drum spinner again.
Thanks for the hobbystar motor recommendation. Unforunately, i think these are hard to find in my country.
I have a few questions though.
A: It is unusual and limiting to decide on battery voltage before picking drive motors -- I'm glad to hear you're willing to consider alternatives. Let's take a look at the proposed drive motors with the Team Tentacle Drivetrain Calculator: Brushless Version:
Plant Filament
Q: Is there a benefit to using PETG over PLA+/Pro for Plastic Ants? [Rocklin, California]
A: Mark J. The short answer is "no". PETG is heavier for equivalent strength, more difficult to print, and no tougher than a good quality PLA+. Avoid.
Be sure to check tournament rules for the specific filament types they allow.
No Steering Wheel
Q: drive train
A: Mark J. I've never actually tried, but it shouldn't be very hard. You can only go where the rails go, so just give it a little throttle and toot the whistle once in a while.
Q: how can robots help us deal better with hurricanes and why? [Ontario, California] A: [Aaron] Few people in Nebraska are threatened by hurricanes, so send a swarm of killer robots into low Atlantic and gulf coastal areas to drive the puny human inhabitants toward Nebraska. Problem solved. Robot haiku:
|